Railway, Waterworks, and Postal Service: Exploring Restored Historic Sites and Learning About the Capital's Modernization

TEXT　Han Cheung

PHOTOS　VISION

Taipei's rise during the late 19^th century as a bustling trade hub and Taiwan's provincial, colonial, and later national capital shaped a distinct historic landscape. Japanese-era (1895~1945) buildings and infrastructure remain most prominent, alongside post-war monuments and facilities, offering a layered view into the city's commercial and political past.

While Taipei was earlier home to the prosperous settlement areas of today's Wanhua and Datong districts, it only became an administrative center in the 1880s and the official provincial capital in 1894 – just one year before the Qing imperial government ceded Taiwan to Japan. Qing-era relics such as Beimen (North Gate), buildings in Bopiliao Historic Block, Bangka Lungshan Temple, and Dalongdong Baoan Temple still stand across the city, but many other important structures were removed soon after the Japanese arrived. The colonial government tore down the

Qing government offices and city walls as part of an extensive urban modernization plan. It also expanded the railway system, laid out wide boulevards, and improved water supply and sanitation, completely transforming the Taipei cityscape.

Although the Japanese preferred living in traditional Japanese-style wooden residences, they built many stately, public buildings with Western architectural elements, such as the Taipei Guest House, National Taiwan Museum, and Governor-General's Office (today's Presidential Office Building). This unique hybrid aesthetic also influenced merchants' shophouses along Dihua Street, which had become a major commercial hub.

Other landmarks from this era include the Railway Department Park, the Taipei Water Park, where the city's first modern water-supply system was managed, and the ornate Taipei Post Office. These sites, along with several others, now allow visitors to explore three key aspects of Taipei's modernization – railway, water infrastructure, and postal service – through carefully restored facilities that offer hands-on insights into how these systems transformed daily life. Each reveals a different dimension of the city's development from colonial capital to modern metropolis.

RAILWAYS

National Railway Museum

For nearly eight decades, thousands of employees toiled behind the walls of the Taipei Railway Workshop (opened in October 1935), servicing and repairing the trains that formed an integral part of Taiwan's daily life, industry, and culture. Serving Taiwan's rapidly expanding railway network, the workshop soon became the island's largest rolling-stock maintenance and logistics center. It witnessed the transformation of the industry – from steam to diesel and diesel-electric locomotives in the 1960s, and electrification beginning in 1979.

Subsequently, the 1980s brought a boom in road travel, especially after the completion of the first National Freeway in 1978. As buses became the preferred mode of public transport, railway passenger numbers declined, as did the workshop's workload. Sitting on valuable land in the heart of Taipei, the workshop was eventually relocated, and the site's incoming rail line was severed during construction of the High Speed Rail system. Following a public campaign to preserve the workshop and open up the once-restricted grounds, the full complex was designated a national historic site in 2015.

Following years of restoration, the sprawling site was partially opened to the public in 2025 – honoring not just the machines and vehicles, but also the people who kept them running. The museum's architecture retains much of the original 1930s industrial grandeur, including massive steel-frame workshops, saw-tooth roofs, and towering gantries, with overhead cranes, embedded rail lines, heavy machinery, and weathered structures remaining in place and the façades still bearing the wear and tear of decades of use. The vast factory halls filled with painstakingly restored train engines and cars, intricate machinery, and other railway artifacts are a major draw, but equally captivating are the preserved facilities that provide a glimpse into the workers' daily life.

The Diesel-Electric Locomotive Workshop (the museum's only paid area; NT$100) offers visitors an in-depth look at the site's maintenance operations. This 2,000m² industrial space showcases key locomotive components – parts rarely seen by the public – and provides close-up views of the specialized machines and processes once handled by skilled workers. Interactive displays, moving parts, and videos help make these complex technical concepts accessible.

Among the highlights are 24 restored locomotives and passenger cars, several of which visitors can board and sit in, experiencing firsthand what rail travel was like in the mid-to-late 20^th century. With becoming a "living museum" as a central goal, exhibits across the complex detail the meticulous efforts taken to restore these vehicles, many of which arrived in bad shape after decades of disuse. From structural repairs to the recreation of authentic interiors, the restoration effort has been both historic and functional.

Next, visitors can learn more about the daily lives of the men behind the machines by exploring facilities such as the Art Deco-style Employee Bathhouse, once used by hundreds of workers each day to wash off the grime after long shifts. The central chamber's arched ceilings are supported by metal frames made from repurposed old rails, while large windows and skylights allow sunlight illumination of the two circular pools heated by excess steam piped in from the workshops. Details such as shelves with personal belongings have been recreated, and one pool features a specially commissioned art installation inspired by artist Liao Chien-chung.

The canteen and recreation center have also been brought back to life using original materials. An exhibit here explores in vivid detail how meals were prepared and served in metal bento boxes, complete with colorful anecdotes and displays.

The leafy lanes and wide-open spaces of the central complex are pleasant to stroll through and unwind. Containing the director's office and other rooms, preserved with original furniture, the administrative building offers exhibits on notable figures, workshop history, and the lasting impact of rail travel on Taiwan's arts and popular culture.

On weekends and holidays, visitors can hop aboard one of two vintage blue-painted diesel railcars that traverse the museum grounds (Book online early, as tickets sell quickly). This is now the only above-ground train (apart from the elevated metro trains) operating in Taipei, as the city's railway tracks were moved underground decades ago. The railcars belong to the DR2200 and DR2300 series, which served the rail network from the 1930s until the 1990s. Affectionately called "blue babies," they remain favorites among local railway enthusiasts. The guided train rides start from either the NRM East Station or the NRM West Station and last about 10 minutes.

National Railway Museum 國家鐵道博物館

🚩50, Sec. 5, Civic Blvd., Xinyi Dist.

📞(02) 8787-8850

🔗www.nrm.gov.tw

🕝Tue-Sun 9:30am-5:00pm

Railway Department Park

Standing out with its distinctive rounded-corner façade, the red-and-white brick main building of the Railway Department Park is a commanding presence, visible from Beimen (the North Gate) and Taipei Main Station's west exits. This ornate two-story structure exemplifies the Western-infused architecture of the early Japanese era, with an equally impressive interior. Built in 1918 as the Railway Department's headquarters, it remained in use until around 1990, after which it fell into disrepair.

Following years of careful restoration, it was reopened in 2020 as a branch of the National Taiwan Museum. Permanent exhibitions explore the evolution of train travel in Taiwan and how it transformed people's daily lives, from concepts of time and space to culture. A 1/80 scale model of "Taipei Station and Surroundings" with moving miniature trains explores the transition from diesel to electric locomotives during the 1970s and 1980s. Young visitors can have fun in the children's play zone, and the museum also frequently holds special exhibitions.

The area's connection to the railroad dates back to 1900, when the original Taipei Railway Workshop was established here to maintain and service locomotives. Surging demand led to its relocation to the above-introduced, much larger facility across town in 1935. The workshop's red-brick building, to the north, is currently being renovated and is not (yet) part of the park.

Of the original 40 structures, 10 have been preserved. An elegant octagonal building, one of Taiwan's earliest public facilities, served as the male restroom, featuring eight urinals around a central column and toilets to the side. The engineering building presents displays on railway construction, while the electrical room highlights electrification with preserved equipment.

A small bomb shelter, built during World War II, later served as a wartime command center in the 1950s. Visitors can also enjoy refreshments at the museum café, located in the original canteen, a charming wooden structure with British and German design elements.

National Taiwan Museum - Railway Department Park 國立台灣博物館鐵道部園區

🚩2, Sec. 1, Yanping N. Rd., Datong Dist.

📞(02) 2558-9790

🔗www.ntm.gov.tw

🕝Tue-Sun 9:30am-5:00pm

WATER

Museum of Drinking Water

Families with young kids flock to the Taipei Water Park during the Taipei Water Festival in the summer for its large shallow pool, equipped with slides and sprinklers – but the site's connection to water goes much deeper. At its heart is the Museum of Drinking Water, housed in a 1908 pumping station that was a key part of Taipei's earliest public water-supply system.

The majestic building blends Baroque, Neoclassical, and other European architectural elements with modern industrialism, featuring a gently curved façade with 14 Ionic columns, domes, and ornate reliefs. The original machinery, pipes, and control panels have been preserved inside. Through photos, artifacts, and interpretive displays, the story of how water was sourced, treated, and distributed to the growing city is told. Another historical structure, similar in style, is the metering room, which is now surrounded by a spacious plaza.

Drawing water from the nearby Xindian River, the pump and flow system was designed by Scottish engineer William K. Burton and Japanese technician Yashiro Hamano, and initially provided about 20,000 tons of water daily to 120,000 residents. The system was expanded over the years and remained in operation until the city's water intake unit was moved to the upstream area in 1977.

Beyond the historical exhibits, the park also emphasizes water education and conservation, with interactive displays and family-friendly workshops exploring sustainable urban water management. The Little Guanyinshan Ecological Trail winds over three small hills and past restored facilities, introducing visitors to Taipei's local flora and fauna. There is also a recreational area with installations and walk-through structures crafted from a variety of water-distribution pipes, allowing visitors to experience the scale of the city's water operations firsthand.

The water theme also extends to nearby attractions. The iconic red-painted Yongfu Bridge, with its visible bright-blue pipe transporting water across the river, runs parallel to biking and walking paths and is a favorite for photographers.

Guanyinshan Reservoir

Dubbed the "Underground Water Palace," the Guanyinshan Reservoir is one of Taipei's more elusive attractions. Only opening to the public in 2019, access is extremely limited. Visitor entry is restricted to guided tours. Free tours are available on Thursdays and Saturdays at 2:30 pm. Attendance is capped at 30 people per tour, so it's recommended to arrive early to secure a spot. Paid tours at other times, requiring a minimum of 10 people, can also be booked online.

Drawing comparisons to Istanbul's Basilica Cistern, this historic water-storage facility was built in 1908 alongside the pump equipment house, now the Museum of Drinking Water. Both were decommissioned in 1977. Partially embedded into a slope, its red-color, neoclassical entrance can be reached via the Little Guanyinshan Ecological Trail. Constructed of reinforced concrete, the structure houses two large tanks, each 4.2 meters deep, with a combined capacity of about 5,000 metric tons.

Once inside, comparisons to Istanbul's Basilica Cistern, this historic water-storage facility was built in 1908 alongside the pump equipment house, now the Museum of Drinking Water. Both were decommissioned in 1977. Partially embedded into a slope, its red-color, neoclassical entrance can be reached via the Little Guanyinshan Ecological Trail. Constructed of reinforced concrete, the structure houses two large tanks, each 4.2 meters deep, with a combined capacity of about 5,000 metric tons.

Taipei Water Park 自來水園區

🚩1, Siyuan St., Zhongzheng Dist.

📞(02) 8369-5104

🔗waterpark.water.gov.taipei

🕝Tue-Sun 9:00am-5:00pm

POSTAL SERVICES

Taipei Post Office

Standing proudly between Beimen and the city's modern high-rises, the monumental Taipei Post Office (aka Beimen Post Office) has been Taiwan's largest and most important postal facility for nearly a century. Completed in 1930, the three-story structure replaced a temporary building that succeeded the original wood-built post office erected in 1898, which was destroyed in a fire.

Designed by architect Shunichi Kuriyama, the post office is yet another prime example of Japanese-era fusion architecture. Featuring double classical columns, a protruding arched entrance, and light-brown ceramic tiles from kilns in the city's Beitou area, its three-winged layout surrounds an open courtyard – reminiscent of traditional Taiwanese homes. The grand hall rises two stories high, its ceiling and columns intricately adorned with ornate carvings.

In the 1960s, a fourth floor was added, and the front portico was replaced by a flat gray-green marble veneer that clashed with the original style. The administration had long considered demolishing this building, but after it was designated a heritage site in 1992, work began in 2010 to recover much of its prewar appearance.

Due to the post office's extended hours, people can be seen sending packages well into the evening during the week. On the second floor is the Postal Museum Taipei Beimen Branch. It features rotating exhibitions highlighting Taiwan's postal history (Qing Dynasty, Japanese era, and Republic of China) and stamp art.

Taipei Post Office 台北郵局

🚩120, Sec. 1, Zhongxiao W. Rd., Zhongzheng Dist.

📞(02) 2361-5752

🕝Mon-Fri 8:30am-9:00pm, Sat 9:00am-12:00pm (2nd floor museum: Tue-Sun 9:00am-5:00pm)

Postal Museum

With six spacious exhibition floors, the Postal Museum offers everything you've ever wanted to know about postal stamps and the mail service in Taiwan – and across the world. Originally opened by Chunghwa Post in 1965 in New Taipei City's Xindian District, it was relocated to the more accessible current location on Chongqing South Road in 1984. Permanent exhibitions are hosted on the second through fifth floors, while the sixth floor features rotating special exhibitions on philately and art.

Visitors can explore historic postal artifacts, including vintage mailbags along with telegraph and telegram equipment, and learn about the technological innovations that have transformed mail delivery – from horse-drawn carts and bicycles to trucks and modern logistics systems.

Enthusiasts will marvel at the museum's vast collection of more than 80,000 stamps from Taiwan and more than 130 countries around the world, created in a variety of shapes, sizes, and materials. Highlights include the first stamps issued by the Qing Dynasty – where Chunghwa Post traces its origins – which are among the world's most valuable stamps. It also boasts a full collection of commemorative editions that showcase Taiwanese history, art, culture, and natural heritage.

A full floor is dedicated to children, featuring interactive displays and hands-on activities that teach the basics of mail sorting and stamp collecting. The special exhibits often feature themes centered on stamp design, exploring the artistic and cultural motivations behind them.

Postal Museum 郵政博物館

🚩45, Sec. 2, Chongqing S. Rd., Zhongzheng Dist.

📞(02) 2394-5185

🔗museum.post.gov.tw

🕝Tue-Sun 9:00am-5:00pm

Dihua Street Post Office

Tucked amid the narrow-front shophouses from the early 1900s in the historic Dadaocheng area stands the Dihua Street Post Office, still functioning 110 years after its opening. The building features a simple stucco exterior blending Western and local influences, and a wooden entrance with a plaque displaying the post office's name in gold calligraphy. Inside, the high-ceilinged interior is adorned with old photographs and displays that trace its past. Visitors will also discover many vintage furnishings, including wooden counters, antique mailboxes, and traditional postal equipment.

It's said that famous Japanese-era political activist Chiang Wei-shui often visited to send letters and telegrams to his associates. Thus, the post office witnessed the history of Taiwan's democratic movement, as the Dadaocheng neighborhood saw the course of Taipei's urban development.

Dihua Street Post Office 迪化街郵局

🚩38, Sec. 1, Dihua St., Datong Dist.

📞(02) 2556-0519

🕝Mon-Fri 8:30am-5:30pm